In this era, consumers are very aware of their health and pay closer attention to the products they use daily, including makeup. Now, good performance isn’t the sole selling point, but consumers are leaning more towards beauty products that keep their skin healthy.
However, skincare and makeup products are based on fundamentally different formulations. It can be hard to develop a formula that successfully combines the benefits of both. So far, here are some challenges and ingredient compatibility issues that the industry is facing when it comes to skincare-infused makeup products.
What Defines Skincare-Infused Makeup Products
Skincare-infused makeup is a beauty product offering traditional makeup functions with the benefits of a skincare product. For example, performance-driven eye makeup formulas with serum-based ingredients and foundations designed to deliver hydration. By offering two functions, consumers can simplify their beauty routine or make their makeup benefit their health.
Ingredient Compatibility Challenges
Building a formula for skincare-infused makeup products can be challenging. You must consider combinations that can support hydration, microbiome balance, and barrier function, while also ensuring the cosmetic formulation ingredients work as intended.
A lot of brands are now adding hyaluronic acid to their makeup products. However, formulation balance remains important, as certain products may not be suitable for all skin types and can potentially cause irritation.
Developing skincare-infused makeup products means you need to spend more time in clinical research. Some ingredients, such as peptides, retinoids, and vitamin C, can quickly degrade if formulations are not properly stabilized. Investing in robust clinical testing is crucial to ensure product consistency, efficacy, and safety, while minimizing the risk of irritation or adverse skin reactions.
Stability and Shelf Life Considerations
Active ingredients that you’ll have to add to achieve the skincare benefits can often react with iron oxides or the pigment in your makeup formula. This may lead to formula separation or color shifting in the end product.
These active ingredients can also degrade faster than your cosmetic formulation ingredients. As they break down, they may increase the risk of microbial growth. Knowing how to properly preserve the result is as important as knowing the right ingredient compatibility. You must select preservatives that won’t cause irritation or compromise the formulations’ stability.
A rigorous challenge test (PET) is a must. It helps ensure that your chosen preservative system performs effectively within your cosmetic formulation ingredients.
Texture and Performance Balance
Building an infused makeup formulation means there would be variables outside of the active ingredients. However, even 1% change in the skincare formula can alter its texture, affecting spreadability and the final thickness of the product.
For the user, it can also feel different when spread on the skin. They also likely won’t feel the benefit of the skincare ingredients, as these changes can also affect the absorption rate.
For example, advanced base makeup formulations with UV filters can feel sticky. If you’re aiming for high levels of UV filters, they may even give a whitening effect on the skin. These issues can quickly become noticeable when UV filters are incorporated into makeup products.
Testing and Product Validation
To produce safe skincare-infused makeup products, you’ll have to go through multiple tests. It’s more than just ingredient compatibility and stability. Depending on where you’re planning to distribute your product and what type of skincare benefits you include in the hybrid makeup skincare, the required testing may differ.
In the United States, products that claim to change skin condition may fall under FDA regulation. This includes hybrid makeup skincare products that promise to prevent sunburn, as they may be classified as over-the-counter (OTC) drugs in addition to cosmetics.
An infused makeup formulation claiming SPF protection must comply with FDA OTC sunscreen regulations, including the relevant monograph requirements. This involves specific formulation, testing, and labeling standards. You are also required to complete drug establishment registration for the manufacturing facility.
Products distributed in the EU are subject to different requirements. Cosmetic definition in the EU is broader, but if you have any claims, they must be substantiated with adequate evidence. If any of your product promises a certain effect within a specific time frame (e.g., 24-hour hydration), you must provide clinical or instrumental data that support the claim.
Launching your own makeup brand shouldn’t be overwhelming. If you’re ready to start planning your makeup production, browse our beauty product solutions for expert guidance in tackling those formulation challenges in cosmetics.
